Canion del Colca

I kept waking up during the night but finally I overslept. What woke me up was a van collecting people for a trip, thanks god not it wasn´t mine. In the next 10 minutes I was packed and ready. I was totally smashed so I felt asleep in the car as soon as I sat in my seat. I woke up just for a minute, when an orange waif of sunrise poured inside the van.

This is how I got to Canion del Colca – the second deepest cannon in the world (3191m). 3 days, 2 nights and a bit of walking. The first stop – not including breakfast – was on a hill of which we could spot condors. My watchful eye missed one sitting on the precipice right next to me, but after an hour of waiting I saw two from distance. 

Crossing the cannon itself was definitely worth the effort. First we had to go down to its very bottom, which did not give too much difficulty, but it lasted. It was a pretty long hike, but as with these kind of outings, it was well worth the effort. It was a pretty rocky trek, and many of the people with us complained that it hurt their feet through their shoes. Most people even had what I would observe as decent shoes for hiking. I had no such issue because I was wearing alpaca socks which are quite comfy, so it added an extra layer of padding. I might just make a mental note to keep doing so in future hiking trips.

The next day – I can say – I woke up in the morning, but as a colleague accidentally locked me in a room from the outside, I slept a bit longer. A walk through the canyon is a sandy road through the pebble path, and then a 40 minutes climb, during which I met an old woman with the mules listening to the salsa on the radio on her shoulder and calling me her daughter.

In the village located on the top of the path we visit the museum of the local culture, organized by one of the families. The exhibition includes a number of stuffed animals, farm tools, textiles and corn (source of chicha). A daughter of the owners told us – with her fluent english – how it works in the field with chichi – they like to drink the strong one (fermented for 4 days), because it brings more fun. The Museum has a profile on Facebook (a museum in the canyon has a profile on FACEBOOK !!!!! I’ve also met a jewelry artist from US and he doesn´t even have an e-mail account, he gave me his business card and asked to call him in 4 months when he is back and switches-on the phone again).

Women who lives in the area has very distinctive clothes. Apparently they wear such clothes in every day, but there is always a chance they´ve put it on just for us.>

While walking I can feel the surrounding space, it’s easier to breathe. For a night we stopped at an oasis, which looked like a scene from a movie. Located at the bottom of the canyon, all green, with blue water in the pool, to which we are all relieved to jump. Warned about mosquitoes we sprayed around. Unfortunately I did not predict that attack at night in the toilet, so I ended up with bitten buttocks.

The last day we wake up at 4:30 and march without breakfast 1200m up. For several days I am sick and breathing through the nose is not an option, so I stay a little behind, what allows me to frequent stops and to look down. Several people took the mules to the top, while others gave their backpacks to porters. I was caring all my luggage, and felt like I lost 2 kg on the way. At the end I kept being taken over by mules.


Nazca lines

Imagining Nazca lines I had “Signs” movie and gigantic field’s signs in my mind. With such an assumption I got on 5 seats airplane for a US$80 half an hour flight. Lonely Planet added their bit about 500 square meters of nearly 800 different lines, 300 geometric shapes and about 70 shapes of animals and plants.


They collected my details, checked my weight and put on board. Well, 5 seat airplane sounds cool. Minute after take-off I started to feel my organs moving all possible directions. I was really trying to focus on sights not to do what I felt was coming… I was looking and looking and I nearly missed first lines we were passing – they were really small and hard to notice, though it effectively made me forgot about state of my stomach for a while. Not for long though, as my flight companion girl sitting on my side was making use of this air sickness bag. That made me ask all superficial powers (Claire-Bear has few of them) for some strengths not to feel this specific smell and to make last night dinner where it belongs (we were advised not to have breakfast the day of flight).

To recap, lines didn’t make big impression. They aren’t big as I expected them to be, plus they’re spread on a huge desert what allowed pilots to play with our internal organs…. (There was a “tips are welcome” sign on their dashboard, I’m not too sure if they ever receive any though…).

Straight after we landed and left the airplane, a man in a white uniform kindly offered us a massage… I had to refuse though, as It most certainly wouldn’t be a moment of relax.

Nazca is full of machos

There’s a rich nightlife in Nazca what we’ve observed when we got there at 2:30 am. The next day made us come up with a theory that must be true. We strongly believe that one sunny day a bus full of female gringos arrived in Nasca (each white person is a gringo, doesn’t matter where she/he comes from). Girls were ready to promote a sexual promiscuity and so they did for a next few days. When they left, all men in the city started to assume, that each white girl loves to have sex whenever and with whoever.

We came up with the theory based on our experience that day in Nasca, when we were being harassed by all men (various age and occupation) we were passing by.

Cusco with Claire-Bear

Usually we spend a great time with a wonderful people, when we hung out with our friends. But sometimes on our way we meet these kind of people who blow our mind and it’s impossible to forget about them.

I’ve met Claire-Bear in Santa Cruz – small, kiwi, half human half animal girl. We said goodbye to each other in Samaipata. Then again we’ve met for a few minutes in Sucre and Copacabana. Finally she found me in Peru (most probably thanks to her animal half). After few shots we’ve decided to spend few weeks in Cusco, learn some spanish and live together for the time.

We’ve been studying a lot and when we decided that we know enough, the time for practice came. We’re rather shy types of girls, so most of our conversations with locals were short and on subject. With time we’ve discovered chichi – chollita’s drink that gives power and courage. To drink chichi it’s necessary to find a source – a drink house. We did it and straight on the beginning we got like a liter glasses out off chollitas hands. They did use it for a few hours so it took me some time to convince myself to drink from it, but the effect was a miracle. Fermented corn helped us to get some new friends, to practice our language skills, got my polish roots denied, made Claire-Bear swim in chollita’s piss and at the end we’ve organized a party in not our room.

During the next evenings we’ve decided to get some information about local culture. What can be a better source than a local party? Our target was a masquerade ball of one of peruvian banks. It was difficult to convince guard to let us in (apparently wearing flip-flops doesn’t mean you look like geisha) but with a little help from a sweet peruvian girl we made it inside. After about 30 minutes they made us leave, but that time with a free food and drinks was properly used.

In the city we’ve been chased by women with lamas. We had to hide in our favorite veggie bar Prasada, where it was easy to forget about hungover after a 1 liter glass of a freshly squeezed juice. Plus, each day there was a surprise in menu like lasagna with pure.

There were bad moments as well. I had a random accident…I stumbled on a rock on a passage and ended up sliding in a puddle. Oups.